
Whip Antenna
A traditional 80m ARDF antenna is 8m of wire, suspended from a tree
branch, with one or more 8m radials & feed from an ATU tuning unit.
Potential problems with this solution.
- Mix an excessive amount of wire, with woodland undergrowth and you will frequently
get in a tangle!
- An over-specified ATU can add considerable cost and hardware complexity to
each
transmitter.
With the above in mind, G3ZOI and M0AET developed an alternative
approach, using a pre-tuned antenna and no ATU.
A 6m fiberglass roach pole is used to support a vertical wire with a
loading coil wound directly on a lower section of the roach pole
The coil being approximately 1m from the bottom of the pole, with 68-70
turns of 24-26 swg wire, determined using the MFJ antenna analyzer.
No radials are used! A standard 10mm copper covered steel earthing rod
will penetrate the hardest ground, provide a reasonable ground
connection and support a roach pole, which is sleeved over the rod.
This arrangement gave an SWR better than 3:1 and a reliable, good workable signal. Proven on a
number of events in 2006 with a 3watt ON7YD/ATX-80 transmitter, and
using no additional tuning device.
It should be noted however, that this design has been depreciated for
active use in favour of the tuned short wire devices presnted below.
80m antenna erection at the
Butterwood ARDF event April 2006
 |
 |
| Co-designer
of the 80m Antenna, Ken M0AET uses
a converted golf trolley to carry the 5 - 6m roach poles, earthing rods
and control point equipment for easy deployment. |
Geoff
M0SOX readies the roach pole to drop
over the ground rod |

Short Wire Antenna
The obvious disadvantage of the roach pole is deployment of the
relatively bulky and heavy components also, variations
in the environment can easily detune the antenna from its preset optimum.
Experiments with foxOring micro transmitters using antenna 2m long or less, showed that a very short tuned,
resonant antenna could be usefully detected over far greater
distance than expected. As a result, various options to match a simple 5m wire antenna were investigated.
At 80m, any antenna using a wire length of 8m or less ,
has
a high input reactance with a very low radiation resistance.
A suitable matching device for this configuration, is the parallel
tuned ATU, similar to that used in the ON7YD 80m micro transmitter and
the W3EDP balanced tuner. Ken M0AET, was the proactive developer of
this system shown below.
A 5m wire and counterpoise is used with an out-board ATU built
into a small plastic box, 3"x2"x1".
A single turn link is enough to light a LED as a voltage detector, for use as a
very effective tuning aid.
(note: this will only work in a high impedance network)
Using the parallel tuned circuit described with a MFJ current meter, an
RF current of 120-150mA was measured.
This antenna and ATU system was successfully used throughout
2009, including the British championships
An alternative is to use the 'L' match network as suggested by
AA3SJ. Effectively, a cut-down version of the
popular
'T'
match.
As we are operating with a single frequency & 'short'
antenna we therefore only require a transformation from low to
high impedance (TX - Antenna) . The circuit can be simplified, using
a single series
capacitor (circa 200pf) which can be a low cost poly type.
The coil can have a fixed number of turns.
The 'L' match was built into a 80m transmitter as shown. It shows how a wider box (AB23) can accommodate an integrated ATU.
Using the 'L' match, with a MFJ current meter, an RF current
of 150-180mA was measured.
The LED tuning indicator is from a design by Peter Zenker
DL2FI. The 10pf capacitor was removed to make the voltage peak
more obvious. However, of the two LED voltage indicators described above ,
the M0AET design gives a more pronounced peak.
Wire Antenna deployment
A 6m roach pole is used to 'lift' the 5m antenna wire to a suitable
tree
support, with a specially designed hook bent from a wire coat hanger or
similar guage wire. The hook slots in the highest hollow
section of a roach pole. (The top section is solid, so first needs to
be removed).
A firm tug on the wire will un-spring the hook from its support ( watch-out for the falling hook!! )
references
resources
last updated 01 Jan
2010.
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